Freakin' Insanity

As we rode home tonight from Accra back to Tema, with four of us crammed into a small cab going 100 km (which is very fast in Ghana) and swerving in and out of traffic, Joanne sat with her hand over her eyes asking, “are we still alive”?   I chuckled and joked with her that one week from now we’d been in absolute silence (except I’m sure for the sound of crickets) in our tent somewhere on a game reserve in Kenya…it’s something that is hard to imagine after the weekend we’ve had but something we are both looking forward to.

My day started rather slowly.  I’ve been battling with some sort of sickness with restless nights, gut wrenching pain off and on, a headache and half a dozen other nasty symptoms but at 3 am this morning my fever broke and I was able to get up this morning feeling somewhat normal.  I don’t have time to be sick this week as it’s my last week in Ghana so I double up on my malaria meds and start the antibiotics my Dr. from home sent with me.  That should get me through 7 days and then it won’t be long before I’m home.  But I slowly came to life this morning, dressed in my boubou (long shirt like dress) for church, managed to get a slice of toast and a black coffee into me and was ready to go by 7:30 a.m.

Tony, from TemaTech, one of our clients picked us up this morning in a van and drove us to his Charismatic church.  While not located in the safest area of Tema, we none-the-less were excited to see what Charismatic Christianity was all about and thankful we didn’t have to find our way there by ourselves.

What a blast!!!

Standing on church steps

I wasn’t able to partake in the dancing (not quite enough energy yet) like some others (Joanne can really boogie when she wants to Eric!) but we had such a wonderful time watching the congregation experience their Sunday morning rituals.  The Ghanaian culture is a very religious one and this particular branch of Christianity places a lot of emphasis on joy, faith and hope through singing and dancing.  Quite refreshing!  Our host, Tony was thrilled to have us there and the congregation greeted us with high fives, hand shakes and hugs during the meet and greet portion of the ceremony.  

Sunday school

The music was wonderful and the congregation really got into their celebration.  The minister spoke in English and welcomed each of us from our native countries which he had listed out and the interpreter translated everything into Twi (local language here).  The sermon this morning was about wastefulness and although the ceremony from end to end was 3 hours it seemed far shorter than that.   I figured I’d spent my time well this morning and thoroughly enjoyed the event. 

Our host at church..Tony

I skipped lunch to grab a nap so that I could get through the rest of the day.  Our next trip in the afternoon to Accra to see a football (soccer game) would be quite a different adventure.

Soccer in Ghana.  How do I describe it?  Utter insanity!

We arrived late at the soccer game as we’d stopped by Accra Mall for lunch (I managed to eat a few kernels of popcorn but couldn’t stomach anything else).  As we walked closer to the stadium, it was evident that there were still crowds lined up for tickets to the Accra vs. Kotoko game.  Francis (our CFO) went in search for tickets as the group of 7 of us stood waiting.  I’m quite use to being started at by now but still a bit shocked when men reach out to grab your arm or make a comment directly to you…for the most part I ignore it.  But today was unique…we had a gentleman approach us asking if we wanted tickets so after standing waiting to find tickets for half an hour “heck, yes” we wanted tickets….it was going to cost us double however but the 10 Ghana cedi’s (about $7 Cdn) was a very small price to pay.  So off Frances and the gentleman in the army jumpsuit and the chains (not decorative chains but heavier gauge steel chains) around his neck went.   We all wondered what the chains were for and if we’d actually get our tickets.   Twenty minutes later (we were almost ready to give up and leave), they came with the tickets and we proceeded to go to the gate to enter the stadium. 

Our Accra fans

At the stadium entrance, utter pandemonium started with shoving and pushing by the crowd of people swarming us trying to get into the stadium gate with us.  Our group of seven were hanging on to each other and we could feel people pushing up against us, almost knocking us over.  At one point Joanne asked if those were Kerstin’s hands on her neck ….that’s a negative Joanne.  She broke her gold chain in a struggling match with the man behind her who was trying to pull it off her…Denis’s side pocket of his leg of his shorts was undone and someone was grabbing at his wallet and I could feel hands searching up and down my legs for things in my pockets….freakin’ insanity!  Jorge got a bit intense yelling at people to leave us girls alone.  Suddenly the crowd started pushing us backwards away from the gate almost knocking us down the steps.  While we didn’t realize it at the time, we soon learned what the guy in the army jump suit did with his chains…he was having no luck clearing the crowd for us to pass, so he started swinging the chains at the crowd around to clear a small enough path for us to get through.  We were literally pulled through the steel gates one by one by the security teams and once on the other side, were sent on our merry way by GI Joe.  But we all paused briefly on the other side, in shock wondering what the hell just happened.  The little extra we had to pay to GI Joe was well worth it!

Crowd watching soccer

Inside the stadium, we found some 2^nd row seats.  I was amazed to find such good seats given that we were an hour late for the game but I soon realized it was much easier to see the game if you were higher up on the rows as the parades of singers and dancers down at the lower level blocked your view of the game.

Parade at soccer field

June, who is our Chinese delegate, was…..well…… how do I say it?.....given some what of a ….hmmmm, presentation of sorts.  She was sitting quietly with us taking in all the sites when suddenly a young man jumped up two rows from the front aisle and almost landed in her lap.  He proceeded to kiss at her (often interpreted here in Ghana as a way to get attention…not like we interpret it in Canada).  He scared the crap out of her and proceeded to lean in with his face not 6 inches from her and dance rather suggestively in front of her.  Our entire team watched with open mouths and Francis said later he was ready to step in at any time to stop the shenanigans but he too was in too much shock.  The young man…with nothing on but his pants…which barely covered the poor lad, continued to entertain June for a few moments dancing and shaking before he bounced down out of the stands and ran off to entertain his next victim.  Needless to say, when we arrived at the pub after the game for some dinner, June ordered a Cosmo AND a dry martini…poor girl will never be the same!

June after eventful evening

I had all kinds of questions for Denis (Brasil), Jorge (Mexico) and Kerstin (Germany) about soccer in their respective countries but none of them could equate the experience we saw today to what they see at home.  Freakin’ insanity is what comes to my mind!

But after some yam chips and a couple of STAR beer after the game, we headed back to Tema.  The moon was full tonight and I wondered if that contributed to the craziness of today’s events.  I feel as though between being sick, church this morning and soccer tonight I’ve been to heaven and to hell and back all in one day! 

Post soccer smile on Akiba

But I’m feeling much better now between the antibiotics and the beer (of course I could keep the beer down!) something’s working.  As I settle in for the night, I’m comforted to know my girls are back from skiing in BC with Daddy and June is fast asleep after her eventful evening.  Tomorrow I start my last remaining week in Ghana.  I have such mixed feelings about going home but I’m so grateful for ALL my experiences here (even the days I feel like crap help me appreciate the days I feel great). 

Full moon in Ghana

So as I watched the full moon rise high in the sky on my way home to Tema I remembered a phrase I say often to Em and Liv and I hope they’re thinking of me too…”I love you to the moon and back girls”…and the African beat of the music thumps away in my chest from the woofers in the back seat of the taxi…do they ever play music softly here?.....EVER?